Things to do in Afghanistan

Arrive early at Afghanistan’s first national park to see dawn light ignite the six deep-blue travertine lakes, framed by stark Hindu Kush cliffs.

Wander among crumbling mud-brick walls and the remnants of a once-great Silk Road capital known as the ‘Mother of Cities’.

Admire the vast turquoise domes and courtyards of this 15th-century mosque, where thousands of white doves gather in the central plaza.

Trek past village terraces and mulberry orchards into narrow gorges shadowed by the peaks where Ahmad Shah Massoud made his last stand.

Journey deep into the Hari Rud valley to see this 65-metre 12th-century brick minaret, intricately carved with Kufic inscriptions and set against a towering gorge.

Contemplate the cliffside alcoves that once housed the world’s tallest standing Buddha statues, destroyed in 2001, now a haunting UNESCO World Heritage site.

Settle onto a carpeted platform in a traditional teahouse near the Masjid Jami, sipping golden tea infused with locally grown saffron.

Walk through the vast Seljuk-era mosque, its iwans covered in brilliant blue and turquoise tilework that glows at sunset.

Follow ancient caravan trails past yurt camps and glaciers in this remote panhandle, with the Pamir and Hindu Kush ranges closing in on both sides.

Sift through piles of Turkmen, Baluchi and Hazara rugs in this iconic market lane, once a mandatory stop on the hippie trail.

See the legendary Bactrian gold and ivories from Tillya Tepe, alongside Gandharan sculptures, in the museum rising from decades of war.

Cross the Hindu Kush at 3,878 metres via the Soviet-built tunnel and high-mountain road, with staggering views and a palpable sense of history.

Join crowds on 21 March for Afghanistan’s biggest celebration of the Persian New Year, with music, buzkashi and the raising of the janda (banner).

Scale the massive baked-brick fortress built by Alexander and rebuilt by the Ghurids, looking out over the old city’s rooftops and minarets.

Spread a cushion on the travertine shore where the deepest of the lakes reflects the surrounding apricot-coloured cliffs, and watch local families paddle rented swan boats.

Journey into a remote Himalayan valley in the Hindu Kush to spot ibex, urial sheep and possibly snow leopards in a pristine, seldom-visited landscape.

Dig into Afghanistan’s national dish – heaped plates of raisin-topped rice with tender lamb – in a bustling, no-frills eatery beloved by locals and visitors.

Walk beneath the soaring 11th-century mud-brick arch that rises from the Helmand River, all that remains of a once-mighty Ghaznavid winter capital.

Stop on the winding road to take in the startling blue-green ribbon cutting through the valley floor, backed by snow-dusted peaks.

Relax on the terraced lawns of the Mughal emperor’s tomb garden, with marble headstones, trickling channels and views over the city’s rooftops.

Carve turns on untouched powder with the giant Buddha niches in sight; a handful of local operators now offer backcountry ski trips in this alpine valley.

Wander under strings of bulbs past stalls selling grilled meats, sweets and prayer beads after evening prayers, a rare after-dark social scene.

Stand at the edge of a chaotic field as horsemen fight over a goat carcass in Afghanistan’s wild national sport, often played on Fridays.

Climb the hilltop stupa-carved monastery near Samangan, a remarkable relic of pre-Islamic Afghanistan with a subterranean meditation chamber.

Pause on the Kabul River bridge to see the 1920s mosque’s unusual Italianate balconies and green onion domes, a striking architectural mashup.