Madeira is a steep volcanic island in the Atlantic, closer to Africa than to Lisbon, with a mild climate all year. Its south coast, around Funchal, is sunny and built up; its north coast is wetter, greener and wilder; and its high interior rises to over 1,800 metres, with the laurel forest of the laurisilva, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, on its slopes. The archipelago also includes Porto Santo, an island of long sandy beach, and the uninhabited Desertas and Selvagens.
Funchal and the levadas have their own pages, and the Portugal page covers the PR6 walk to the 25 Fontes. This page covers the island's big set pieces outside them: the ridge walk between the highest peaks, the bare peninsula of São Lourenço in the east and the lava pools of Porto Moniz in the north-west.
Distances are short but roads are slow and winding, so plan by area rather than by kilometre.
Walk the ridges from Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo
Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo
About 3 hours one way, plus transportTimed entry
Walk the sharp ridges linking Madeira's three highest peaks, through tunnels in the volcanic rock that once sheltered shepherds and cattle.
What it is
PR1, the Vereda do Areeiro, starts at Pico do Areeiro (1,818 m), works round Pico das Torres (1,851 m) and ends at Pico Ruivo (1,862 m), 6.1 km and about three hours, graded moderate. In must30's view it is the island's finest mountain walk, with a steep stone staircase round Pico das Torres and a final climb to the Pico Ruivo shelter.
How to do it
Beyond the Pedra Rija viewpoint the route is one-way, so you cannot walk back: finish down to Achada do Teixeira and arrange a pickup. The fee is €10.50 for the full route or €4.50 to Pedra Rija and back, for over-12s, booked on SIMplifica.
Good to know
Start early, carry warm layers and a head torch, and check the trail status on the day.
Walk a bare, treeless peninsula of volcanic rock at Madeira's eastern tip that feels like a different island, with sea on both sides.
What it is
PR8 follows the Ponta de São Lourenço peninsula for 4 km each way, a moderate walk of about two and a half hours there and back on an undulating, well-kept path. The rock is mostly basalt with some limestone, and a semi-arid climate and northern winds keep the plants low. The peninsula is a partial nature reserve, with rare plants, one of the region's largest gull colonies and protected seabirds such as shearwaters and Bulwer's petrels, and with luck a monk seal offshore. Near the end, at Cais do Sardinha, you can swim.
How to do it
Book and pay the €4.50 fee for over-12s on SIMplifica; when checked, the trail was listed as restricted, with small temporary diversions that you must follow.
Swim in natural pools of black volcanic rock, formed as lava cooled thousands of years ago and renewed all the time by the waves.
What it is
They are at Porto Moniz, on the north-west tip of the island, where the sea pours over the rock into the pools. The main complex has about 3,800 m² of swimming area around two metres deep and a sun deck of about 3,200 m², with a children's pool, changing rooms, a bar, first aid, parking and access for people with disabilities, and sunbeds and umbrellas to rent.
How to do it
Entry to the complex is paid. It is the classic stop on a drive along the north coast through São Vicente and Seixal, and the village has places to eat by the water.
Good to know
Come in the morning: on cruise-ship days, coach groups can fill the pools by late morning.
Funchal is the base for the city, the gardens, the wine lodges and most tours. The north coast, around Santana, São Vicente and Porto Moniz, suits walkers and quieter stays. The interior is for the levadas and the peaks, reached by day from either coast. Porto Santo is for a beach break.
Getting around
A rental car gives the most freedom, but mountain roads are slow and parking at trailheads fills early. Without a car, combine city buses in Funchal, island buses along the coasts and tours or taxis for trailheads. Every classified walking trail needs a prior reservation on the SIMplifica portal.
How many days
In must30's view, a week is the right first trip: two days for Funchal, three or four for levadas and the peaks, and one for a drive round the north coast to Porto Moniz. Add Porto Santo or more walks with a second week.
When to go
Madeira is mild all year. Spring brings flowers and full levadas, summer is warm and dry and best for swimming, and autumn is calm. Winter has more rain and wind, which can close trails and, at times, delay flights. New Year in Funchal is the busiest week of the year.
Questions travellers ask
How many days do you need in Madeira?
A week covers Funchal, several levadas, the peaks and a day on the north coast. With five days, choose between the walks and the coast; with ten, add Porto Santo or slower days on the north side.
Do you need a car in Madeira?
It helps a lot. Buses run between the towns, but most trailheads, viewpoints and the peaks are hard to reach without a car, a taxi or a tour. If you do not want to drive mountain roads, base yourself in Funchal and book walking tours with transport.
Is the Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo walk hard?
It is graded moderate and takes about three hours for 6.1 km, but it has long staircases, exposed ridges and tunnels at over 1,800 metres. The full route is one-way beyond the Pedra Rija viewpoint, so you need transport from Achada do Teixeira at the end.
Where can you swim in Madeira?
The island has few sandy beaches. Most swimming is in sea pools built into the lava, such as Porto Moniz, at lidos along the south coast, or from rocky platforms. For a long sandy beach, take the ferry or a flight to Porto Santo.